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| Chinese restaurant syndrome is the popular slang for allergies or adverse reactions that some people claim they get after eating food containing the flavour-enhancer monsodium glutamate, or MSG, that is widely used in many processed foods and also added to many Asian dishes. 中國(guó)餐館綜合癥是流行用語(yǔ)，指有些人聲稱的在進(jìn)食了含增強(qiáng)鮮味的味精(monsodium glutamate，或簡(jiǎn)稱MSG)之后所產(chǎn)生的過(guò)敏或不良反應(yīng)。味精被廣泛用于食品加工，也被添加到許多亞洲菜肴中。 What is amazing about the publication of this research is not that it concludes MSG allergy is a myth, but that a scientific journal still needs to bother debunking such pseudoscience at all. As the New York Times put it in an article by Julia Moskin published last year, "'Chinese restaurant syndrome' has been thoroughly debunked (virtually all studies since then confirm that monosodium glutamate in normal concentrations has no effect on the overwhelming majority of people)". 這項(xiàng)研究報(bào)告的令人驚訝之處，并不在于它作出了“味精過(guò)敏是一個(gè)謬論”的結(jié)論，而在于一份科學(xué)雜志仍然需要不厭其煩地揭露偽科學(xué)的謊言。正如去年《紐約時(shí)報(bào)》朱莉婭·莫斯金的文章所說(shuō)，“‘中國(guó)餐館綜合征’一說(shuō)已被徹底揭穿(幾乎所有的研究已經(jīng)證實(shí)，正常濃度的味精對(duì)絕大多數(shù)人不造成影響)”。 This newspaper published an article in 2005 by Alex Renton that says "at no time has any official body, governmental or academic, ever found it necessary to warn humans against consuming MSG". 這份報(bào)紙?jiān)?005年曾發(fā)表了一篇署名阿萊克斯·萊頓的文章，文中說(shuō)道：“從來(lái)沒(méi)有任何正式的政府或者學(xué)術(shù)機(jī)構(gòu)認(rèn)為有必要對(duì)人們使用味精發(fā)出警告”。 Renton also writes about experimenting on a friend of his named Nic, who claimed to have adverse reactions to MSG: Renton feeds him a meal full of the MSG and closely related naturally occurring glutamates that are found in a huge range of foods including tomatoes, cheese, Marmite, seaweed and Worcester sauce. But Nic feels no pain or adverse reaction after his glutamate-stuffed meal. 萊頓在文章中還談到自己在朋友尼克身上所做的實(shí)驗(yàn)。尼克聲稱對(duì)味精有不良反應(yīng)，于是，萊頓在給他吃的菜肴里加了味精，或者加了與味精密切相關(guān)的天然谷氨酸——許多食物含谷氨酸，如番茄、奶酪、酵母提取物、海草和辣醬油等。不過(guò)，尼克在吃完一頓富含谷氨酸的飯菜之后，并沒(méi)有感到哪里疼痛或有什么不良反應(yīng)。 That's because he did not know he was eating MSG and other glutamates: like everyone else who complains of allergy or adverse reactions to MSG, Nic has psyched himself into believing that the benign substance makes him feel bad. 原因在于他不知道自己吃了味精或其他谷氨酸：像其他任何一個(gè)抱怨對(duì)味精過(guò)敏或有不良反應(yīng)的人一樣，尼克已經(jīng)神經(jīng)過(guò)敏了，誤以為這種良性物質(zhì)會(huì)讓自己感到不舒服。 In China, where I live, you don't hear many complaints about MSG allergy. They're too busy gorging themselves on the stuff. Chinese people consume 1.6m to 1.8m tonnes of MSG crystals every year, according to China's "MSG King" Li Xuechun, chairman of the Fufeng Group--a company that grew big enough to list on the Hong Kong stock exchange thanks to sales of MSG. 在我生活的中國(guó)，你很少會(huì)聽(tīng)到味精過(guò)敏一類的投訴。人們對(duì)這玩意兒愛(ài)得不亦樂(lè)乎。根據(jù)中國(guó)“味精大王”阜豐集團(tuán)(一家因銷售味精而發(fā)展起來(lái)在香港聯(lián)交所上市的公司)的董事長(zhǎng)兼總裁李學(xué)純的測(cè)算，中國(guó)人每年的味精消費(fèi)量在160萬(wàn)至180萬(wàn)噸左右。 Most restaurants and home kitchens in China have a big bag of MSG crystals, known in Chinese as weijing, or "flavour essence", and they toss it liberally into all kinds of savoury dishes. Even chefs who don't use glutamate crystals use soy sauce in most recipes, and soy sauce tastes good precisely because it's chock full of glutamates。 在中國(guó)，大多數(shù)餐館和家庭廚房都有一大袋MSG結(jié)晶體，中文稱作味精，或“調(diào)味品”，人們?cè)诟鞣N風(fēng)味的菜肴里都擱上一點(diǎn)兒。即使不使用谷氨酸晶體的廚師，也會(huì)在大多數(shù)菜肴里加點(diǎn)醬油。醬油口味鮮美，正是因?yàn)楹胸S富的谷氨酸。 |
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